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Gear

When I was researching what was required to get back into the market, so to speak, I looked high and low for websites that described what equipment the entertainer used. There weren't many, so I decided to spell out what I was using. I hope this helps some young acoustic entertainer, somewhere. If not, it helps me remember what I bought! Also, you might get the impression that I've got G.A.S, and you'd be right. Guitar Acquisition Syndrome.

Primary 6 string guitar Guild D55 NT
Other 6 string guitar Taylor 814CE
Pickup for the Guild Fishman Ellipse Blend
Primary 12 string guitar Takamine EF381C
Travel Guitar Blueridge BR-341
Bouzouki (tuned GDAD) Petersen
Road Kit Four Categories
PA System Fishman SoloAmp
Acoustic Preamp Mama Bear
Primary Gig Mic Audix OM5
Other Gig Mic Sennheiser e835
Recording Setup Studio
Mixer (studio only) Mackie DFX-12
Interface to computer Line6 UX2
Vocal Mic (Studio) Rode NT1A Condenser Mic
Vocal Mic (Studio) MXL 990 Large Condensor
Mic Pre Amp (Instruments) M-Audio DMP-3
Mic Pre Amp (Vocals) ART Tube MP Studio
Instrument Mic Audix i5 Dynamic
Instrument Mic MXL 991 Small Condensor
DAW Software Sonar 8 Producer
Mastering Software Ozone4
Vocal Processing Melodyne Plugin

Taylor 814CE

Playing the Guild/Fishman combo at gigs was quite difficult because in many cases, feedback was always right there, waiting for me to turn a little to the right, or left. This was really bizarre, considering the speakers were in front of me, more or less. You can imagine how frustrating that can be. I even got a sound-hole cover, and although that helped some, it was not as much as I had hoped.

Long story short, one of my sons brought his Taylor 814CE to one of my gigs. I ended up playing it all night, and he almost didn't get it back! It sounded great, and feedback was minimal. The next day, I did some pricing on the internet, and headed over to the local Guitar Center, fully intending to buy an 814CE. Ultimately, I did, but I actually started off with the 810CE. However, it had a problem with a hot B string, so I took it back. Once again, I played everything else they had, and settled for the 814CE.

A bonus in the new Taylor line is their redefined electronics called the Expression System. It was initially a bone of contention for me because it only had 3 little knobs, compared to the larger slider-type EQ of prior years. How could it possibly sound as good. I don't know, but it did, and it does. The major benefit of the ES electronics is that it's output is balanced. That means, hold onto your shorts when you crank it up. The volume increase is 4 or 5 times that of an unbalanced system. Did I mention, there is no feedback, except when I do something stupid like walk up to the speakers with the guitar around my neck.

Strings on this guitar are D'Addario EJ17

Guild D55 NT
 

During my electric rock days, I played a 1966 Gretch Tennessean, which was likely influenced by the fact that George Harrison played one. (The photo at left shows me and the Gretch along with Sonny Nesmeth(sp) on the Hoffner bass. Others in the group were Kenny Urbansky on lead guitar, Bill Kidd on drums and Terry Durakis on keyboard and autoharp.) Anyway, at some point in 1976, I traded the Gretch in on the Guild. (The shot at right is a newspaper ad that Ron Zehel Guitar Land, Amherst Ohio did as a marketing thing. Why I kept this article is beyond me.)

This Gretch/Guild deal represents the second major stupid thing I did as a youngster. (I actually did a lot of stupid things, but this, and one other are the notables.) It wasn't the fact that I bought the Guild, because I put a ton of time into selecting just-the-right guitar, but that I got rid of the Gretch. I recently found a 1968 Tennessean on the web selling for $3,800. What a bonehead! (The other stupid thing? I sold our 1968 Camaro Z28 for $1,800, and thought I made out like a thief!)

Strings = D'Addario EJ17

 Fishman Ellipse Blend

After a lot of research, I had a Fishman Matrix Natural II installed, the one that does not add bass enhancement. There's enough natural bass in D55's big dreadnaught body to satisfy anyone. (Rappers not included.)  This is a piezo, under saddle style pickup. After a couple months of having to adjust the volume at the PA controls, I decided it was time for some on-board control. For that I bought the Fishman Ellipse Blend with the goal of installing it myself. NOT! The instructions call for the unsoldering of a tiny resistor and capacitor from the existing jack-mounted preamp. You then have to solder in a miniature surface-mount, 2k ohm resistor. Sorry, but I can barely see the thing, let alone, solder it. Here's the deal; on the top right hand corner of the instruction sheet is a statement that says something like, "Dude, don't even try this installation unless you're an expert at this stuff." Believe me, this was not a waste of ink on Fishman's part. Plan to have a pro install it right from jump street. It will stop the premature sprouting of at least 9 gray hairs.

This control unit fits very neatly out of sight, just inside the sound hole. Of course, the little mic is visible if you look hard enough. This soundhole mic combines with your existing Fishman Matrix Natural I or Natural II to give you both types of pickups. The function of the Ellipse Blend is to allow you to blend the outputs of the under-saddle pickup and the sound-hole mic.  The controls include volume, blend (mic and under-saddle) and a push button to select either Natural I or Natural II type sound effects.

You have to play with the blend level to avoid the feedback generated by the internal mic. While that helps control the feedback, it obviously affects the resulting sound. The optimum feedback control comes from blending the system to 100% piezo. Otherwise, if you absolutely needed to blend in some of the sound hole mic, you'd likely have to plug the hole with a device such as a FeedBack Buster. The drawback to this approach is you can't easily get to the onboard volume controls. It's a tough business we're in.

Takamine EF381C

I've wanted a 12 string for a long time. What better way to justify the expense than with paying gigs? I was impressed with the on board electronics. It actually sounds fairly natural when plugged in, which is not an easy thing to do with acoustic instruments. Besides that, if it's good enough for Glen Frey of the Eagles, it's, sure as shootin', good enough pour moi. Further justification is that there are some great tunes from the Byrds, Beatles and a few others that just don't sound right without a 12 string. Sure, you can play them with the 6-string, but the sound just isn't the same if you're looking to be true to the original. That's my story, and I'm sticking to it!

Strings = Elixer and EXP Lights

Blueridge BR-341

I was going to a far away mini tour. Too far to drive. No way was I going to check my Guild or Taylor. (There are only two kinds of luggage, carry on and lost/damaged.) I wanted a guitar that was small enough to carry in a backpack/gigbag, but still have great sound. Parlor style was what I settled on. I played two different Collins, 4 different Larrivee, and the more expensive Blueridge parlor model. In my opinion, NONE of them sounded any better than  this one. I didn't try to explain it. I just bought it.

Road Kit

Everything that goes on the road with me can be categorized into 4 separate families. They are:

  1. Amp - Fishman SoloAmp

  2. Guitars - I usually bring the Guild and the 12-string. There is a dual purpose for 2 guitars, a. there are dedicated 12-string songs that have to be played on one. It's the law!,    b. when the batteries die on one guitar, it's a simple matter to hook up the 2nd.

  3. Stands - that consists of 2 guitar stands and a music stand. I always have a book of lyrics consisting of around 170 songs. Also included in this bunch is a stool for my weary body. You'll notice there is no mic stand, that's because I use the WH30 head-worn mic.

  4. Everything Else - I carry a 22" carry-on bag everywhere. It holds all cables, a portable CD player for break time, my sign, the Alesis Mixer and a compartment full of spare batteries.

Mama Bear

It's no secret that acoustic guitars quit sounding like acoustic guitars the instant they are plugged into an amp or PA. The best amplified sound has always been produced by standing in one spot, and pointing an instrument-quality mic towards the guitar. This isn't always practical. One solution that eliminates the harsh, clanky sound is Mama Bear. It is a preamp that digitally removes all the nasty sound, and replaces it with an adjustable combination of your guitar's natural sound, and that of your choice of 16 classic acoustic sounds. A word of caution; I was completely dissatisfied with my Taylor when I first started using the Mama Bear. I made a ton of adjustments, and it still sounded shrill, clanky, well, just plain electric, and I was ready to send the 814 back to the factory to repair the terrible plugged-in sound. Then I read the Mama Bear manual. (Hush, girls!)  It basically said to find the lowest possible values in the output and blend controls that will give you the sound you are looking for. So, I backed off of the max values I had been using and voila, I have an acoustic guitar that sounds like it should.

With that problem handled, I can now say that this thing absolutely works! If you are an acoustic purist who demands true acoustic sound, this is the preamp that will satisfy your needs. Fact is, it does such a great job of producing excellent acoustic sound that one could actually get by with one good acoustic guitar. Of course, that doesn't apply to those of us with G.A.S.

Alesis Multimix 6FX-6

This is the effects mixer I use to provide reverb for vocals. It is capable of much more than just reverb, but I don't find anything else necessary when used in conjunction with the Bose L1. Also, the amount of reverb dialed in is miniscule in comparison to its capabilities.

This is a small box at about 8" x 11", making it not much of a hindrance to drag around.

Mackie DFX-12 Mixer

This mixer isn't required on the road any longer. However, I do use it when I host an Open Mic. I typically need most of the inputs to satisfy the various setups

Recording Studio

I have converted a bedroom into a studio. Actually, there have been no physical changes that make it a studio, only a name change, and a sign which I hang on the door indicating that  recording is going on, and silence is golden. It is carpeted, which helps control the sound-bouncing. My setup is very simple, with few whistle and bells. All instruments are mic-recorded with various condensers, routed thru the ART MP Mic Pre. From there directly into the Line 6 interface, into the computer via USB. The vocals are thru large-condenser mics, thru the ART Studio V3 Tube mic pre, and into the Line 6 interface.

Line 6 UX2

This is a two-holer interface. Two XLR or two 1/4 inputs with dual output via USB. It's also packed with a load of effects and mic-pre simulators I haven't even begun to explore.

Rode NT1A

This is my first major step toward better studio sound. I've used it on many recordings and there is no doubt that it captures and sends a better, full spectrum sound to the software than the dynamic mics I had been using. Initially, the sound was very muddy. Turns out there were a couple problems: a)  the mic pre wasn't sending enough oomph until the operator got his program together and learned how to use it. b) Proximity effect - it basically means I was too close to the condenser mic. 

What you see in the photo is the mic mounted in a shock mount, and a pop filter on the business side. I'm not sure what shock it's intended to protect against. It's not like I'm wrestling, or playing basketball while recording, but hey, if the pros use it ........

Audix i5

This is an inexpensive, yet highly recommended instrument mic. I was concerned with an open mic picking up the noise of my computer fan, but after playing with the location of the mic in the room, this is under control. Also at issue is, at what location on the instrument should the mic be directed. The differences in sound from one location to another is dramatic . All I can say here is that you have to experiment to find the best sound. Pick noise is another problem you'll have to work around. A combination of picking technique and mic placement will mostly solve this problem. I would imagine that in a real studio, they would point two, or more mics at the instrument to blend the best sounds of all locations. I might try that some day when I'm not blowing my money on other essentials.

M-Audio DMP-3

This is a mic pre amp. It provides a huge amount of sensitivity that simply isn't there without a pre-amp. It allows me to back off the mic, and pick up on the subtle, and not-so-subtle nuances of the voice and instruments. There are many different preamps, all with different attributes, and a price range from $100 to $10,000. This one, at about $150 had several good reviews, and for me at the moment, cheap is good. update: This thing started making a bunch of noise that was outside my hearing range, but other folks filled me in on. I had to analyze all my recordings, using Sonar's Analyst to find the offending noise and strip it out. Needless to say, this thing is retired.

Sonar 8

This Producer edition is everything anyone could possibly need from a DAW in a studio, home-based or otherwise. It comes with a large assortment of plugins, and at least a billion more if needed.

ART  Tube Mic Preamps

I know, they are likely NOT the best in the world, but it's what I wanted to spend, and I read some good independent reviews on them. They're a far cry better sounding than other inexpensive micpres I've had. The major drawback or complaint I have is there is no switch, What's up with that? Put a switch in the things and charge me an additional $10. Anyway, I got tired of plugging the power units in, and out of the micpres, so I built a switchbox. It's cheap, and works like a million bucks. Here's the parts list, (all stuff from Radio Shack):
275-0693 SPST Rocker switch    $2.99  (I needed two of these)
275-1802 Project Enclosure      $2.99

A little wire cutting, wire stripping, soldering, hole drilling and mounting and it was done. A thing of beauty. Try it. You'll like it!

 


 

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Last Updated 06/15/2009
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